Whale watching

If you want the chance of a close up view of one of the largest creatures on this planet then head for the Bay of Biscay on board the P&O ferry the Pride of Bilbao sailing out of Portsmouth.

While there are no guarantees you will see a whale there is a good chance you will see some of the quarter of the world’s species of whale and dolphin which scientists believe swim in the aquamarine waters along the continental shelf edge and abyssal plain. Carole and I went on the specialist whale watching mini-cruise supported by the scientists of the Biscay Dolphin Research Programme. To be frank I was pessimistic about this but the result far exceeded my expectations. Previously I had seen six species of dolphin. At the end of the trip I had seen six new species over three days, and saw more individuals than I had seen in all my previous sightings.

While it is called whale-watching it is really more whale-spotting. As the Pride of Bilbao is a working ferry it does not have the time to tarry, although on the dedicated whale cruises the vessel is taken along the underwater contours, and will even change course when possible to give a better view of these marine leviathans.

One such change of course gave hundreds of spotters a view of a gigantic fin whale, the second largest species in the oceans. Trained spotters on the bridge had identified its breathing “blow” as it surfaced for about two miles away and the Pride of Bilbao altered its course to bring the magnificent creature along the starboard side, about 60 metres away. It must have been the best part of 20 metres long, and in the clear blue oceanic waters it was possible to see it swimming under the surface, coming to the surface, and blowing. Not once but three of four times before it either dived or the ferry left it behind. Absolutely un-forgettable. That was without doubt a highlight of the three day trip but other new sightings included common dolphins racing in the bow-wave ride; and striped dolphins frolicking in the wake. Those I was positively able to identify for myself.

I was told we also told we saw a Sowerby’s beaked whale, a Cuvier’s beaked whale and a Minke whale but I had to rely on the judgment of the scientists who were making these observations. This is what I mean about whale spotting rather than watching. As often all you see is a shiny back rolling out of the sea, perhaps a couple of times. If the animals are close to the vessel it was usually more successful to rely on eyesight rather than try to focus in with binoculars, as these animals do not pose for a grandstand view, and it can be over oh-so quick.

I did not stay on deck all the time and was enjoying the facilities of the Pride of Bilbao so I missed some of the sightings. The log at the end of the trip showed 11 species of whale or dolphin, as well as turtles and sunfish, and gave an estimated 830 plus individuals.

The mini cruise costs from £89 per person, based on two sharing an ensuite cabin. And when not on the look out for whales there are cinemas, shops, and a range of shops, bars and restaurants to occupy the time. The trip gives a chance for about four hours ashore in Basque Spain, which gives enough for a stroll around the old town of Bilbao, a look at the Guggenheim museum, or an excursion to a fishing port.

The dedicated whale watch includes a presentation by the experts. And a chance to stand with them over the bridge of the vessel with a view to the horizon of 13 miles and a vantage point over 500 square miles of ocean.

Highly recommended even if the only wet you get is internally….

Click here for more information.

Allan Tudor