Some Gull recipes

Michelmas Gulls

(Traditionally, a Michelmas gull is one that has fed on the stubble after the corn has been harvested. The grass and spilt grain fattens the gull up nicely. The favourable feeding conditions that the gull experiences today now makes this dish a year round favourite, although the old style name has been retained.)

Stuff the bodies of the birds well with sage and onion, then tie the ends of the legs together. Cover the birds with fat and roast slowly at 150-170 ºC - Gas  2-3, allowing 12 mins per lb per bird. After half the cooking time, baste well, then dredge over the whole bodies with seasoned flour. Put back into the oven, basting again at 10 minute intervals and then dredging.

When the birds are done, pour the fat out of the tin except for a spoonful, stir in a little flour and then half a pint of good stock made up from the giblets and salt and pepper to taste. Boil this up, letting it thicken well. Serve the gulls with this gravy, apple sauce and creamed potatoes.

Gull Paté

Make a marinade of the wine, vinegar, herbs, seasoning and onions and pour over the gull meat. Leave to marinade for 3-4 days, turning occasionally.

Mince the meat twice and mix with the sausage meat. Season with salt and pepper. Soak the crumbled bread in enough milk to moisten it, and then mix into the meat.

Line the bottom of an ovenproof dish with some of the bacon rashers. press the meat mixture in firmly, put more bacon on top, cover with the lid and bake in a moderate oven 190°C - Gas 5 for 2 to 2½ hours.

Marinade

• 1 cup red wine
• ½ cup vinegar
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 level teaspoon of dried thyme
• nutmeg
• salt and pepper
• 4 small onions finely chopped

Pate

• meat from marinaded gulls
• ½ lb sausage meat
• ½ lb bacon rashers
• 1 slice of bread - crusts removed
• salt, pepper, milk

Salade nicoise with soft poached gulls' eggs

Combine all the ingredients (apart from the egggs) into a large bowl, season with black pepper and toss gently. Break the eggs into simmering water and poach for 2 - 3 minutes. Remove, drain and place on top of the salad.

• 4 tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons of finely chopped chives
• 10 quartered radishes
• 200g good quality flaked tuna
• 8 anchovy fillets
• 4 gull's eggs

Gulls' eggs are unfortunately not cheap despite the large numbers of nesting birds now found in Britain. Don't imagine that they have a fishy taste - they don't. More of a sweet sea-saltness. Scrambled gulls' eggs with anchovies are absolutely delicious as many clubs in St James's or at the House of Lords will attest.

Gull fricassée

1. Heat the butter in saucepan or casserole, then add chopped onions and celery and sauté for 5 mins at medium heat.

2. Add the gull pieces and sauté for 5 mins. Stir in flour and cook gently for a minute. Gradually add the stock and stir until the sauce is thickened.

3. Add cream, nutmeg and lemon juice, add salt and pepper and bring to boil.

4. Add mushrooms, cover and simmer for 10-15 minutes.

5. Stir in parsley, tarragon or thyme. Serve hot with rice and salad.

Ingredients

• 1¾ oz butter
• 1 medium chopped onion
• 1 stick sliced celery
• 2lb cooked gulls, boned, skinned and in pieces
• 1¾ oz flour
• 18 fl oz of chicken stock
• 5 fl oz of cream or milk
• 1 pinch of nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• Salt and pepper
• 6 oz sliced mushrooms
• Chopped parsley or thyme

Note. The gull may be prepared for the table in a number of ways - but hanging is popular. They may be hung by the neck for up to two days in a cool place. This tenderises the meat and helps to develop the flavour. The gull may then be prepared as one would for a pheasant or chicken.